Historic Cairo grew from the Fatimid capital that the general Gawhar al-Siqilli founded in 969, a walled city of mosques, madrasas and covered markets that UNESCO counts among the world's oldest Islamic urban centres still standing. Layers of Fatimid, Ayyubid, Mamluk and Ottoman building sit side by side across its old quarters, while the pyramids on the city's edge and the churches of Old Cairo add millennia more history to a single day's walk.
Neighbourhoods to know
Islamic Cairo, inside the old Fatimid walls, holds the densest run of medieval mosques and markets. Old Cairo, further south along the Nile, gathers the Coptic churches and the remains of the Roman fortress of Babylon. Downtown's early 20th century boulevards fan out from Tahrir Square, while Zamalek and Giza, on opposite banks of the Nile, hold quieter gardens and the pyramids themselves.
When to go and for how long
Winter, from October to April, brings much easier walking weather for the old city and the plateau at Giza, once summer's extreme heat eases. Three to four days cover the pyramids, the Grand Egyptian Museum, Islamic Cairo and the Egyptian Museum at a steady pace, with a fifth day free for Saqqara and Dahshur, around 30 and 40 kilometres south, or further to the Roman and Greek ruins of Alexandria, around 220 kilometres north on the Mediterranean coast.
Getting around
Three Cairo Metro lines cross the city, with some cars reserved for women, alongside a dense network of taxis and ride-hailing apps that cover the ground the metro does not reach. Central Cairo suits walking in short stretches, while Giza and Islamic Cairo, split by the Nile and several kilometres of traffic, are best joined by taxi or the shuttle now running across the pyramids plateau. The Giza plateau, the Grand Egyptian Museum beside it and the Egyptian Museum on Tahrir Square are the capital's entries among things to do in Egypt, a list that runs on south to the temples of Luxor and Aswan.