Why visit Athens
Athens has been continuously inhabited for more than 3,000 years, and its ancient centre still sits exactly where its earliest inhabitants settled on the Acropolis rock. Democracy took shape here under Cleisthenes in 508 BCE, and the city's fifth century golden age produced advances in philosophy, theatre and science that still frame Western thought. Ottoman rule and a long decline followed, until Athens became the small provincial capital of the newly independent Greek state in the 1830s, growing into the sprawling, hilly metropolis of today.
Neighbourhoods to know
Plaka and Monastiraki keep their historic character wrapped around the ancient agoras, busiest with tavernas and flea market stalls. Kolonaki, on the slopes of Lycabettus, gathers upscale shops and museums, while Psirri and Exarchia keep the street art and nightlife. Koukaki, below the Acropolis Museum, has grown into one of the city's most walkable areas for cafes and small hotels.
When to go and for how long
April to June and September to October bring warm, dry days without the summer's peak heat. Three to four full days give time for the main archaeological sites, a museum or two and an evening in Plaka, and the Saronic islands or Cape Sounion suit an extra day for those staying longer.
Getting around
The historic centre is walkable end to end, with the Acropolis, the agoras and Plaka all within about twenty minutes of each other on foot. The metro's three lines reach the port of Piraeus, the airport and the outer suburbs quickly, and the electric tram runs along the coast toward the beaches south of the centre.