Perched on a rocky outcrop wrapped by a bend in the Tagus, about 70 km south of Madrid, Toledo has been rebuilt by every civilisation that held it: a Roman municipium, capital of the Visigothic kingdom, a stronghold of the Umayyad emirate of Córdoba, and after the Christian conquest of 1085, a city where Christian, Jewish and Muslim communities lived and built side by side for centuries. UNESCO calls it the city of the three cultures and listed the entire walled centre as a World Heritage Site in 1986.
Inside the walls
The old town packs a cathedral, a former royal fortress, two synagogues and a Mudéjar mosque into a tangle of stepped lanes barely wider than a cart. The Judería, the old Jewish quarter around the synagogues of El Tránsito and Santa María la Blanca, sits toward the western edge of the peninsula, closest to the Puente de San Martín; the Casco Histórico around the cathedral and Zocodover forms the commercial heart, busiest around the middle of the day.
When to go
Spring and autumn keep the stone streets shaded and the crowds thinner than the height of summer, when the Castilian plateau's heat can be intense with little shade inside the old town. Many visitors come on a single day trip from Madrid, but the streets empty out noticeably once the coach groups leave in the late afternoon, which is when the old town feels most like itself.
Getting around
Toledo's centre is built for walking, not driving: the cobbled lanes inside the walls are largely closed to private cars, and parking is scarce. From the bus and train stations at the foot of the hill, it is a steep climb up to Zocodover, and local buses, including line 5, run up to the square regularly for anyone who would rather skip the hill. El Greco painted The Burial of the Count of Orgaz for the church of Santo Tomé between 1586 and 1588 and it still hangs there, one of the works that keeps Toledo on most lists of places to see in Spain.