Civitavecchia is a working port of just over 50,000 people, not a resort, and most of the millions who pass through it each year are ashore for a matter of hours rather than days. What the town offers instead is a compact old quarter squeezed between the harbour and the sea, built and rebuilt over two thousand years since Trajan laid out its original basin, and a train line that puts Rome within reach for anyone with a full day to spare. For passengers starting or ending a cruise here, the port also makes a natural first stop on a longer tour of what to see across Italy.
A port built to change hands
Trajan's engineers finished the original harbour around AD 110, and the name Centum Cellae, the hundred rooms of the emperor's villa, stuck to the town for centuries. Saracen raiders destroyed it in 828, and returning settlers renamed it Civitavecchia, the old city. Popes fortified and rebuilt the port from the 15th century on, and Allied bombing flattened most of the centre again in 1943 and 1944; the fortress, the cathedral and the squares standing today are largely post-war reconstructions of that older layout.
The old town and the port
Everything worth walking to sits within the loop between Forte Michelangelo and the Museo Archeologico Nazionale: the Darsena Romana fishing harbour, the Vanvitelli fountain, Piazza Leandra and the cathedral. Corso Centocelle runs the length of it, connecting the railway station to the harbour with shops and cafes. Above the town, the Roman Terme Taurine baths, expanded under Hadrian, are currently closed to the public for restoration work.
A day trip to Rome
Regional and Intercity trains connect Civitavecchia's station to Roma Termini, making the port a realistic base for a single day in the capital. The Colosseum and the Vatican are the two sights that dominate most itineraries, though a return journey leaves only a few hours to see either properly. The Etruscan necropolises of Tarquinia and Cerveteri, a joint UNESCO World Heritage site since 2004, lie along the coast to the north and south for travellers with more time.
Getting around
The old town is flat and entirely walkable from the port's pedestrian gate, with everything on this page reachable inside an hour on foot. Cruise ships dock at one of five terminals inside the port, and berth assignments vary by ship, so the walk from any particular berth to the town gate is not the same distance twice.