What makes Melbourne unique
British settlement began in 1835, when settlers from Tasmania led by John Batman "purchased" land on the Yarra River from the local Aboriginal people; the streets of the future CBD were surveyed in 1837 and the settlement, first called Batmania, was soon renamed after the British prime minister of the day, Lord Melbourne. Gold discovered in 1851 funded the Victorian-era arcades, markets and civic buildings that still line the grid today, and generations of laneway art, coffee culture and sport have layered on top of that boom-era streetscape ever since.
Districts and where to go
The CBD and Docklands hold the grid, the free trams and the arcades; Southbank across the Yarra adds the arts precinct around the NGV. St Kilda, a separate municipality south of the centre, brings beaches, Luna Park and live music venues such as the Palais Theatre. Carlton and Parkville hold the university district and Lygon Street's Italian cafes, while Fitzroy, Richmond and Collingwood to the east keep a bohemian, working-class edge around the MCG.
When to go and how long to stay
Spring, from September to November, and autumn, from March to May, bring milder, more settled weather than Melbourne's changeable winter and its hot summer. Three to four days cover the CBD itinerary and a handful of sights beyond it at an easy pace, with an extra day worth setting aside for an excursion further out.
Getting around
Trams criss-cross the compact CBD grid, and within a free zone covering the city centre no ticket is needed at all; travel beyond it and a myki card or contactless card is required to touch on and off trains, trams and buses alike. St Kilda Road's trams link the CBD to the arts precinct and on to St Kilda, and the Great Ocean Road's Twelve Apostles lie about 275 kilometres and a four hour drive west of the city. That road, built by returned soldiers as a war memorial, is one of the fixtures among what to see in Australia, along with the Queen Victoria Market and the MCG in the city itself.