Why visit Pompeii
Pompeii began as an Oscan and Samnite settlement before Rome made it a colony in the 1st century BC, and by the time Vesuvius erupted it was a thriving town of workshops, villas and public baths. The eruption is traditionally dated to 24 August AD 79, though sealed autumn produce and the heavier clothing worn by many victims have led some historians toward an eruption in October instead. Buried under several metres of ash and pumice, the city was largely forgotten until systematic excavations began in 1748, and new areas are still being uncovered today. For many travellers the ruins are reason enough to visit Italy, and the site anchors most first itineraries through the south.
The modern town of Pompei
A short walk from the ruins, the living town of Pompei grew up around the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin of the Rosary, a basilica founded by Bartolo Longo whose cornerstone was laid in 1876 and which was consecrated in 1891. Its bell tower is visible from parts of the archaeological park, and its streets hold the hotels, restaurants and train stations most visitors pass through on the way to and from the excavations.
When to go and how long to stay
April to June and September to October bring milder weather than the summer, when the shadeless streets turn brutally hot by midday. Half a day covers the main route through the Forum, the theatres and the Amphitheatre at a steady pace, while a full day allows time for the Villa of the Mysteries and the smaller houses as well. Arriving soon after opening helps beat both the heat and the tour groups.
Getting around
Pompeii is a walking site only, its old Roman streets uneven and largely unshaded, so comfortable shoes, water and sun protection matter more here than at most ruins. The Circumvesuviana railway connects the site with Naples and Sorrento, stopping at Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri right by the Porta Marina entrance, while Trenitalia's regional trains from Napoli Centrale call at the separate Pompei station near the Piazza Anfiteatro entrance. Herculaneum, Pompeii's smaller sister site buried by the same eruption, sits on the same Circumvesuviana line toward Naples.