Why Sintra is worth visiting
Sintra took its name from a hill worshipped in pre-Roman times, and by the 8th century the Moors had fortified a ridge above the town. Christian forces retook the town in 1147, and Portuguese kings later turned its cooler, forested slopes into a summer retreat. By the 19th century European Romantics were writing home about palaces rising from the mist, and that layered history of Moorish, royal and Romantic building is still what draws visitors up from Lisbon today.
A hillside built on romance
Sintra's palaces trace a single obsession: Portugal's elite competing to build ever more fantastical retreats in the hills. Ferdinand II's Pena Palace started the trend in the 1840s, and Carvalho Monteiro's Quinta da Regaleira and Francis Cook's Monserrate followed, each mixing Moorish, Gothic and Manueline details into its own fairy-tale silhouette. UNESCO listed the whole hillside as a Cultural Landscape in 1995 for this concentration of Romantic architecture and gardens.
Beyond the palace circuit
West of town the hills give way to the Atlantic at Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe, while forest hides the plain stone cells of the Convento dos Capuchos. East toward Lisbon, the pink and blue Queluz National Palace adds a Rococo counterpoint to Sintra's Romantic piles. Between them, the palaces and the Cabo da Roca headland put the municipality on almost every shortlist of what to see in Portugal.
When to go and for how long
A single day covers the historic centre and one or two hilltop palaces at a steady pace; two days let visitors add Monserrate or the Capuchos without rushing between timed tickets. Spring and autumn bring milder weather and thinner queues than the peak summer months, when the palace car parks fill by mid-morning.
Getting around
Trains from Lisbon's Rossio and Oriente stations reach Sintra in well under an hour, and the historic centre itself is compact enough to cover on foot. From the station, paid circular buses climb to the hilltop palaces for those who would rather skip the uphill walk.