Why Naples deserves your time
Naples is older than Rome and wears its layers openly: Greek streets under Roman foundations, Angevin castles beside Baroque churches, all packed into one of the oldest historic centres in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1995. It is also the birthplace of pizza, a city that treats its patron saint's blood as a civic barometer and keeps Vesuvius in view from almost every corner.
Neighbourhoods to know
The centro storico around Spaccanapoli holds the densest concentration of churches and ruins, its narrow lanes busiest by day. Chiaia, along the seafront promenade, is the elegant side of the city, with boutiques and the gardens of the Villa Comunale. Vomero sits on the hill above, reached by funicular, with the calmer streets and views of Castel Sant'Elmo. The Quartieri Spagnoli, the old Spanish Quarter west of Via Toledo, keeps the loudest street life and the steepest alleys.
When to go and for how long
April to June and September to October bring mild weather without the August heat, when many small businesses close for the month. Three to four full days cover the historic centre, the Archaeological Museum and a half day in Vomero, with extra time worth setting aside for Pompeii or Vesuvius.
Getting around
The centro storico is entirely walkable, and funiculars climb from Via Toledo and Chiaia up to Vomero. Metro Line 1 runs a handful of art stations designed by international architects, Toledo and Municipio among them. The Circumvesuviana train reaches Pompeii, Herculaneum and Sorrento, and ferries from the port sail to Capri, Ischia and Procida.